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Hope everyone has been getting some lately. Plenty of surf locally, some good waves at the right tides at the proper spots. Looks to continue for a few days and with the winds clocking more E then SE a cleanup (somewhat) should ensue. The main player behind the winds is the broad High out in the Atlantic and the pressure gradient with Ida. Speaking of Ida, latest track has her in the Mid Gulf going North then turning E towards North Fla. Models hint of her taking a NE track after that and blowing up as an extra-tropical system. Many uncertainties and scenarios but interesting to see what happens to say the least. As far as around here goes , NWS and models initially had a wind turn to the SW on Wed but that is very dependent on the track of Ida. The closer it hugs the Fla coast the better the chance of a full turn of the winds . Not exactly in the forecast right now but its not out of the question. As far as the West Coast goes, Right now much of it is being shadowed from the main wind and swell energy by the Western back of Cuba (see latest quickscat). That should change come later today so a decent swell should be headed to those Gulf spots soon. Late Mon into Tuesday the lower part of the West coast should begin seeing Ida swell source . I wish I had time to chase that scenario but with the East coast playing out like it is, not a bad idea to stay put and wait to see what happens over here. In short lots of activity, something we have been sorely missing this year so enjoy and share .
Just got out of the water at sb, waves are soild shoulder to overhead/chunky east chop. B careful outhere.
Incoming tide at HH was surprisingly fun and uncrowded (+-25 guys) Shoulder++ peaks pushing thru and connecting to inside, then turned so-so at slack tide. It should get fun again with ougoing.
11:30 to 1:30 at sobe. Super crowded, on shore. 6 people in the lineup. Lots of thick white water to punch threw. Choppy, blown out mess with scary faces pounding on the sand bar. Peaks popping up from all direction, totally confused. Caught a waist high wave that was breaking on top of a head high wave. Dropped in on the waist high then air dropped the head high which was now nearly vertical. The fins skidded sideways until I rotated the board and the flow across the fins was reestablished. I tucked to duck the crest which was now tipping forward but the gods did not favor me. The solid green water slammed me in the chest and sat me down in the water. The wave then picked me up and tossed me over the falls for good measure. After a thorough cleaning in the washer machine and having my eyeballs exfoliated by all the sand, I climbed my leash to the surface only to dive under another, and another, and another. Finally grabbed my board and paddled back in to the line up. And that was just the first wave of the day. It's big out there. My best advice would be to skip the peaks which are tipping over and look for shoulders. Fast fun rides though when it all works out. I second El Cache, be careful out there, It's rough.
Today was all about the right drops. Great to have mother nature as crowd control. Ill put pictures of some of the madness on my FB for the boys tomorrow, some great surf went down today for those ready
GLos
Looks like the broad high will relax and as Ida moves North into the gulf it greatly improves our chance for a cleanup. Tomorrow (tues) evening if the winds do in fact rotate South it could get pretty fun. Not to mention SW winds Wed but sharply droping surf then.......?
Looks like another day of chop-o-rama. Gale warning in effect until 11:00am. Winds on Fowey are currently E @ 31 - 33 knots.
At least the winds are starting to clock around 100-110 deg . Needs to keep turning for the cleanup.
Another great surfrider event Friday night.
Hurt my heal Friday night jumping a fence(don't ask).Missed out on the weekend chop.
Do you think it will last till Weds/Thurs?
For around here it will depend on how fast the wind drops and clocks around. Likely residual leftovers and clean , hopefully waist high or better. The longer the winds stay South the better. I'm planning on early Wed before work. Best bet is upcoast Wed with offshores and East swell from a decent fetch as the high lifts. Could be very good.
Thanks for the accolades for the movie event. It was real fun and a great time. Next time we are going to try to get some better films . That was the only thing missing.
Surfed this morning waves were better but after getting my ass kicked all weekend I could not even move out there
Personally, I thought Echo Beach was pretty sweet, but I kinda dig the retro thing. That was my first time at the movie event. Good times...Slop fest was fun this wknd, but I too am really hoping for a clean up Wednesday morning. Looks like Thursday and Friday, could be offshore and fun too, with a "coldish" front pusing thru??
balistic, i had a similar beat down or 2 when i paddeled out at South after Phins game Sun. at times, felt like the strong winds got under my board too. was thrown off my board after 1 drop in when another little wave popped up on the face. that late, the crowd factor was 0, there were still shoulder peaks, strong drift & a pain in the azz paddle back out if you got pushed inside by the walls of white wash. good exercise to keep strong for this wknd's surf
Got out at HH sunday miday....Much more maneagable than sobe was on saturday....Seems to be a better bet for these sloppy events, if you can find a parking spot!
Chunky east chop this morning/overhead on sets, lot of paddling, very consistent, got a few bombs! but man was it a bit*h to paddle back out after a couple of hours.
Don't be surprised if Ida comes over to the East coast then things might get interesting. Don't say I didn't warn you.
Anybody check out Gulfster.com? Looking nice! Wonder if it'll last til tomorrow AM.
I second that Mr W. Things are gonna get interesting.
I also agree. It's going to get real interesting. Just look at the WW3 model for this Saturday! (120 hour)
Pete, I liked Echo Beach. Ain't nada wrong with a good documentary. A lot of my surf mag collection has Echo Beach ad's with Danny Kwok and his poka dot boards!
Got out after a late p.m. sesh in the 70's St. - MB. Chunky chest to shoulder drops with one nice turn. Then it mushes out or dumps on a sandbar. Starting to clean up..
Waves were fun in the waist to shouder range, bot as bis as this morning but still fun east chop. Could b good tomorrowif the winds blow
I was refering to the second film which had sub par waves and did not have the artistic criteria to make the stoke factor. Did not get a chance to see echo Beach but i'm sure I would have liked it.
Too busy cooking that great food we ate, Pete! Check it out when you can. You'll enjoy it. Agreed on flick #2. My buddy and I were joking about that. They must've thought about us when they made the film.
They're thought process went something like this: Let's do something different for our surf movie. I got it! Let's take a group of great surfers, take them around the world to surf every choppy wave we can find. Yea, that's it! Novel idea. No one's done that before.
But they forgot to include our bread-and-butter wind chop in that movie....
Some models are showing an impressive elongated fetch. Just have to wait and see what happens.
Good chance for some offshore breezes, but the timing has not been confirmed yet. Ida could move off into the Atlantic and blow up. That's what some of the forecast maps show, including a 30' swell off Hatteras, pointing at SFL. Not much confidence in that, but at least the computers are giving us something mighty interesting to ponder.
North side of PB inlet is thick with sharks. I saw that Eric G. was attacked by a great white in shallow water just north of Santa Cruz. The shark busted his board, and he even kicked the shark trying to get away. He paddled the front half of the board to the beach, trailing the tail half connected to his leash. Not a scratch on him, luckily.
Looking at the cam, it seems waist high? Any visuals?
Is it cleaning up at all?
Happy 234th Birthday!
it should be fun out at south. surfline calling it 3-4 and with SE winds, i wish i werent in an office right now. go check it if you dont have anything else to do.
knee-waist at south, bring a board with a little extra float
Anyone think there will be a wave left over tomorrow at south, with lighter winds, possibly slightly offshore?....winds are still on it from the ESE pretty strong so i would think the waves would hold up a bit. I;m still not conviced there will be waves this weekend if the northeast swell is supposed to be coming from the remnants of Ida...it seems to be weakening alot, but who knows
a little more than just ida for this wknd. there will be def somethang for us, just how good or fun will depend on ida & the front to our west, swell noth of the islands, the sub trop L, lots to watch. any reports from FL west coast or panhandel. i'm curious
Photos from yesterday afternoon online now!
http://www.osocarras.com/p697836014
Check it out!
Oscar
Was out at SoBe with Mr. crsurf and about 50 other people from 10:30 - 12:30. Thigh to waist pretty much (mostly thigh) S.E chop with some underlying swell mixed in. Nothing special (though I was on a borrowed board I wasn't used to so I really wasn't making the most of it, anyway). Guys coming back to the parking lot half an hour later (around 1 p.m.) said it died really quickly.
Had tons of fun on Saturday, though. Hope everybody got wet.
~peace!~
dawn patrol tomorrow looking worse and worse. hopefully this weekend will be weekend number four of waves for the warriors.
Any thoughts on whether morning or afternoon will be better tomorrow? I have a rare halfday off during the week, and I can't decide whether to take it in the morning or afternoon.
WInds dead here, I doubt there will be anything left tomorrow
Nx - Probably better to take the morning off during the incoming tide - though it's looking like it will be really small if anything down here. Might be something for the longboard but even that's looking iffy.
~peace!~
If anything upcoast may have a wave. Loggables at best down here.
There daing solid east. Swell upcoast
You are right about that Cache, solid East swell will be greeted by offshores this afternoon.
Wow talk about multiple swell sources. Pesky winds have stayed South thru the night so we may get some ridables (or should I say loggables) down here. Winds turn SW then NW thru the day particularly and quicker upcoast. On top of that a lingering East swell, possible small NW bounce swell, swell off invest 98 in a day or so and not to mention the gale to form off the Carolina coast. I would def keep board in car and begin coughing.
Early report for FP . Waist high and sometimes chest high and semi clean . Not too good right now with the tide dropping. You may have to go further North to catch more size (Bahama's still block E/SE swell) . Incoming tide will help . Also need to let the morning sickness subside
Report for South as well. Tiny lines, clean but small.
Waves are gonna b bombing today north of Ft. Pierce, spanish house will be the call!
Cnetral FL cmas are looking good this a.m. Still tons of wind on 41009 from the south with 8ft+ wave heights and swell heights of ~ 4 1/2 ft @ 10 sec's. With this Carolina gale forming and NW winds forecasted thru Sat., it's time to get excited again.
A bomb possibly forming in our window. Some computers are calling for 8 feet at 12 seconds on Saturday for CPB.
Sat has Light NW winds as well. Light wind patterns thru the weekend except for Poss N winds Sun/mon Pm.
But still light, Pete. Do you think this could become a double barrel Low where the tropical stuff a touch south hooks up with the gale forming off N Carolina?
Yes you are right , light wind patterns so Offshores still possible. Right now don't see the models with a double barreled low but its not impossible. Whats really interesting is having swell from different sources and different directions. Could make nice peaky action .
Just got a phoned in report for the FP area. Not really worth it right now.
Bummed and stoked at the same time. SR crew going to CR this Friday. You guys may be getting better waves this weekend. That will change after we head to Pavones and Matapalo for a South 180 deg swell. Anyways stoked for you guys to get some here.
I agree with pete, the low should just be absorbed. Keep an eye on the buoys up there for the gale to start forming. Already Northeast 20-25. Should get to 35 plus this afternoon. We want the winds to stay as NE as possible for swell to get down here. Quikscat shows a good fetch starting.
Just got back last night from two weeks in the Virgin Islands for work. Surfed various islands about a dozen times and caught great surf with very mellow and cool locals. My best trip down there in a long while.
I went to the beach this AM hoping for leftovers, but didn't bother paddling out. There were a couple of SUPs getting some short rides and someone on some type of long ocean kayak or sit-on paddleboard catching some really long rides way outside to shore. Not my cup of tea but looked fun.
I haven't looked at the weather maps. If this new swell supposed to hit SFL?
which islands? Hull Bay is one of my favorites. Apple Bay too
Depends on the North angle of the fetch (the gale hugs pretty close to the coast ). The potential is there to reach quite South . How far South is the golden question . I'm thinking Delray North a good bet.
The remnants of Tropical Storm Ida have pushed off the coast of Georgia, and are adding fuel to a developing extratropical storm that is pounding North and South Carolina with heavy rain and high winds. Over two inches of rain has fallen across much of the region, and NOAA's Hydrometeorological Prediction Center (Figure 1) predicts that up to eight inches of rain could fall in coastal North Carolina by Saturday. Adding to the rainwater flooding problems from all this rain will be coastal flooding from tropical storm-force winds of 40 mph expected to build tonight through Thursday along the Outer Banks of North Carolina. High tides up to four feet above normal are expected from the strong winds. North Carolina will end up getting a more severe pounding from Ida's remnants than Ida gave to the Gulf Coast.
Unfortunately alot of East winds in that picture , we need those NE winds for this to come to fruition.
Did anybody go upcoast today? It's just gotten cleaner as the day has gone on. I haven't been able to look at any reports or maps but I know NOAA is calling for favorable winds upcoast through Saturday (W to WNW to NW on Sat), but is there going to be swell from the low off the Carolina's coming in tonight? If so, I agree that there should be some great peaks to be had Ft. Pierce north Thurs/Fri.
went up coast today, Sebastian was head high and offshore, I got there at 8am, it got cleaner as the day pass by but the high tide killed it. Had a blast.
Today looked good north of Fort Pierce. We can't be in Florida right now. Solid surf with offshore winds in the forecast through Saturday night and maybe early Sunday. Palm beaches should be getting something either Friday afternoon or Saturday. Otherwise, take a few days off work, head up to CFL and pretend your in Nicaragua.
South Beach was flat flat flat this afternoon. Beautiful day, though, to be out on the water and not in the office.
I like what I see this morning . Light West winds down here. Fairly brisk NNW winds above the cape. North winds Georgia and S Carolina, an area of very Strong NNE winds around the Virginia (although hugging the coast). I think the Palm Beaches may get some swellage today with good winds. I'm leaning towards a mid day strike session before having to head out to CR tomorrow.
Then again maybe its going to take awhile to start breaking down here. Doesn't hurt to check things on incoming.
very chilly in AM , bring your rubbers kids.
Thanks, W. And the report for the PB's?