Pete in Hawaii , March version

Above first two  pics are a spot called Windmills ,  I surfed there earlier before it got out of control . Two other guys out . I needed every inch of my 7'0"  Merrick Flyer.   Epic air drops . Pretty scary.  So much water moving some waves would eat you alive. Good thing was the break is pretty deep so hitting the reef was no worries .  The third pic is outside Honolua (Subs) . Pretty Giant and nasty current. Really no takers.  One Japanese surfer went out and got slaughtered by a big set.  First time I've ever seen the bay with waves and no one out. Here are some more pics of windmills

Now for a few shots closer to home (My current residence that is). Nothing like living across the street from two great spots. Only problem is they need alot more North angle in the swell than the Bay. Those W/NW swells filter into the Bay but are blocked by Molokai. 345 deg all the way to 45 deg and these spots are open for business. Doesn't hurt I have a wood balcony with a view of one of the spots (Hole in the head).  The other spot is Little Macs which gets crazy big. Something about the  Bathymetry there funnels them in.  It is more of a slopey longboard wave but with the right tide it barrels too.  BIg playing field there vs a tight takeoff spot at Hole in the head .  Enjoy

Here is Little Macs. First shot is the board rack I built in the backyard under some shady trees.  Some other shots are birds that hang out locally including a Brazilian red Cardinal

More pics coming in the coming days so check back soon.

Is the last pict little Macs? Looks like my kinda wave.

I called you the other day brother. No reply, sniff, sniff.

peace and progress!

Yea that last pic is Little Macs, slopey wave but really turns on  when the tide is low. Breaks both ways.   I got your message Wyatt, sorry i haven't called. Every time I think of calling back its like 1 in the morning miami time. I miss you too Sniff,sniff.  There is a trade off to living here . Def miss all my ol homies.

Here are some more pics, past few days have been pumping after a week lull. 

Here are some shots of Keoni, friend of mine (actually the 17 year old son of one of my good friends here). He used to compete and is a really good surfer/waterman. He can huck fins and airs at will but also rides a longboard with style and flow. He has been instrumental in teaching me the lineups to the more tricky places . Been good for my surfing as well.

Here is one of Keoni's friends about to go Mcdonalding (for those unfamiliar with the term it means riding a Mcdonalds food tray -sans fins in this case)

Here is another of Keoni's friends Slater Trout. He is a really cool guy and I surf with him alot at the bay. He also happens to be the second fastest SUP racer on the planet and is on the world tour. A Phenom and up and coming superstar. He has given me a few pointers in proper technique and how to use my core when i SUP . I'm helping him train for the world tour.  Here is a link to his SUP website  http://www.waltonoutdoors.com/head-out-to-the-yolo-board-race-june-25-and-watch-the-race-and-meet-a-star/. Oh and by the way he is also originally from Pensacola, Fla

Now i give you an intermission surf story .

Surfed the bay some days ago after the heavy rains . Went out for a sunset session . Nice waves , shld to head high and pretty glassy. Crowds really thinning as the evening wore on. About half an hour before full sunset I noticed the lineup had cleared. I was the only one left. Bonus i thought- waves to myself. Epicness untill I heard some kids at the top of the cliff screaming sets . I then proceeded to paddle further out since I thought some big sets were coming. Well no monster set came and they kept yelling.  Finally I looked up and they all had their hands on top of their heads prayer style  then pointed to an area left of me.It finally hit he they were saying shark not sets like i thought.  Soon after i noticed a splash and a dark ominous object in the murky lineup. I knew then it was most likely a tiger shark cruising the lineup and i proceeded to poop in my shorts .  Luckily I got away unscathed but it freaked me out a bit.  Nothing like a close encounter.

Don't mess wid the tiger. Pete, first clue-empty lineup when there's waves!!!

WOW, WOW, WOW, I thought I brought you better!peace and progress!

Moar pics , I surfed baby waves today at the Bay. Felt like Fla (Sobe) with a small SE windswell day. Fun regardless and only visitors in the water (rental boards give it away).  Made friends with a chap from New Zealand (Kiwi) and an Italian surfer.  They were on foot so I gave them a ride to other spots as well.  Typical here , you spread the Aloha spirit.  Anyhows the pics were from last week not today.

Here is the rock outcroppping for the go out across the street from my crib.   Not too bad at low tide but at high tide watch out . waves break over the rock and if you time it wrong you will get knocked down (Which happened to me the other day). To add insult to injury my Reef Sandals I had waiting for me on the rock got washed away -never to be seen again. Suxs they were my favorites.

Great pics brudda.. can't wait to hop a flight with Amy out there.

Dude,  You are totally welcome here. We have an extra bedroom . Not too far from San Fran too. South swell season is almost here

NIce Pete...you paid your dues in Fla for so many years, looks like its paying off....on another note, a pattern has emerged over here this spring... been getting hammered every few days by Shanghai lows...this last low is really deep, like in the high 990's, probably deepen as it rolls east and hits some warmer currents.... entering the west pac as I write...get ready Pete

smile Herbie loves you

He'all yea Herbs . Today scored some perfect waves at the Bay. Waiting for some pics to upload from my phone.  Bummed Winter is almost over.

Pics of today, forgot the camera so all pics are cell phone quality (thus a bit blurry)

"like" very much!

smile Herbie loves you

Sick shots... Nice little narrative, too. I gotta get back to those rocks soon!

Today the Easter Bunny left sum nugs out for us at the bay. While most were sleeping or hiding eggs for their kids I wuz surfing the Bay again. Similar to pics above but with a bit more chunk in it . Made friends with these guys from San Diego. One of them lent me his board for a few waves ( a five fin Rusty Dwart 6'0") . That might be my next board I loved it.  Guy said I had some nice hacks on it. First four fin board I really liked. Fifth fin was a small half moon . I'm just about sold on it just need to try the Firewire Dominator one more time .